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The Mechanics of Fashion



Coat and Skirt

A line, which formerly was figure fitting in an Athletic sense, has now under Mechanical change become straighter. This line, in a two-piece suit (Coat and Skirt) on account of its pendulum effect would suggest Sports Wear. The principal of witch is easiness of line and is of relative motion of Grace and Character. In Sports Wear, moving powers would be more or less in consideration, so in conceiving an idea, the problem would be to bring out straight, easy and non-resisting lines. Adjust your line sense to produce a multiplied effect of Mannish yet Feminine technique. Bold yet yielding to Feminine desires.

In this case the Design is of the very simplest effect. It is executed by the Scarf idea and drafting onto the same a pocket, a newer idea. Just face it, turn it back, and stitch it on. We have a Model Sportsman-like and yet not too extreme. The Skirt is a very simple affair of striped sports stuff.

Pattern Designing

Coat Block: Take your pattern and lay it on your paper or material about one inch or so in from the edge of your material (Center Front). Under the arm measure out one inch; at the Straight Waist Line two inches. From under the arm and through the two-inch point we draw a line down nine inches further than the Tight or Normal Waist Line. Under the arm we measure down one inch for a larger armhole because it is a coat. We curve in free hand our armhole. In springing or adding fullness put in regular springs. Two of these springs may extend higher than the Chest Line.
Back: You do not add the inch out under the arm, but you measure out your two inches at the Loose Waist Line. You also make your armhole one inch larger. From under the arm you draw a line down through the two inches at the Loose Waist Line, and extend nine inches below the Tight Waist Line. In springing for fullness in the back, divide into one-half and one-half on each side, making three springs. You spring two of these up and through the Chest Line. You then add three extra springs making six springs in all for the back.

Sleeve: To draft a large sleeve measure around your armhole and dot in that amount in the perforation on that part of the Red Curve that is prepared for the sleeve. If you have not the amount on curve, just continue on same slant and dot every half inch until you reach the given amount. All other principles are used as per sleeve rules and regulations. For a good Sports Sleeve—Cut the Sleeve Block at the elbow and separate one inch in front, as per cut for Sports Sleeve, Do same in both Back and Front. The width of the sleeve is optional. Be sure to allow plenty of room. Skirt: Take your plain working Block and place on paper or material. Measure out on your Normal Waist Line at hip one inch and from that point draw down seven inches, touching hip curve, from there down perfectly straight to hem of skirt, on a block should be about 30 inches from the Tight or Normal Waist Line. For Waist Line take your V 3 of your Red Curve and put it at the one inch out point of the Waist Line and draw your Waist Line curve towards the front To add fullness divide the bottom line into one-half and then one-half on each side of this point. Draw from these points up to Waist Line. Cut the line open and insert a piece of paper spreading one inch at bottom and tapering up to nothing. Spring everything by the rule of one inch. Back: Take your working Block and place on a piece of paper or material. Then measure up in Center Back % of an inch. At your Tight Waist Line at the hip measure out one inch, seven inches down from the hip line measure out another Inch. From the Waist Line inch draw down to that point and from this point straight down to hem. Hake length 30 inches from the Tight or Normal Waist Line. For the curve of your Waist Line take V 3 of your Red Curve and place on the Center Back and draw down the curve towards your inch out on side seam. In adding fullness for your block, divide the bottom line into one-half and then one-half on each side, making three springs in all Draw lines up to Waist Line, cut open and Insert a piece of paper spreading one inch at the bottom and tapering up to nothing. In making a full skirt you can make your springs go right through if you wish on the first springing, making one inch at the top and one inch opening fit the bottom. Add as many springs as you desire. If you want a peg top skirt you add more springs from the top down, making your seam lines tapering in, or if you wish a flare at the bottom add more springs to the bottom, making your side seam lines tapering up. Spring Y* length up or down. * It is well to know now that you cannot get springing by simply adding.


More continued in the next article.

7 Mistakes That Will Ruin A Professional Image

Some of us are aware of it and some us are not. What is it? Image mistakes. A successful career depends on good grooming and self-care.

  1. A polished look means being polished from head to toe not neck to toe. A neatly groomed person wearing a great, well-fitting suit can commit image suicide when she forgets to attend to her hair and makeup. Hair, makeup and wardrobe should be in harmony or professionalism is brought into question. By harmony I mean the hairstyle should be the same style as the clothing, sporty clothing - sporty hairdo, professional clothing - professional hairdo. For example, long, straight hair when worn down will look good on most occasions. However, when wearing a suit in a business setting the hair will look more in harmony if it is worn up or neatly tied back. Hair has a huge impact on image; it can make or break it. If you are trying to project a professional image keep hair in good condition, without splits or ragged ends or a two-toned look.

  2. Poor posture is a simple mistake that can ruin the image of a women who other wise has a profession image. A woman, who is dressed well, has great hair and makeup can teeter over the edge with poor posture. A contributor to poor posture is wearing shoes with heels that are too high and pushes the body forward. High shoes are great and give legs a great look but be aware of shoes that are too high. If you find walking difficult, your shoes are probably too high. Again, be aware of your posture and if it is not adding favourably to your look and your shoes are fine, try some abdominal strengthening exercises.

  3. Lipstick can bring your outfit and your face to life, however, too much caked on lipstick will ruin your look. Also, lip liner should not be seen. Lipstick should be dark enough to hide the liner. The liner is meant to give lips an even look and stop them from bleeding, it is not meant to be


    a border. Be very careful if you want to make your lips appear larger and decide to go outside the line. This, if not done properly could end up giving a very messy look.

  4. The darkness of eye makeup and lipstick should match. If you like to wear dark eyeliner and eye shadow make sure your lipstick is not light color. If you have light or blonde hair dark eyeliner is overpowering and your image will not look professional. Stick to lighter shades. To be on the safe side, no matter what your coloring don't wear dark eye makeup and lipstick in a professional setting.

  5. Eyebrows frame the eyes and can add to a professional image or can ruin it. Three things you want to avoid: 1. Eyebrows that are much darker than hair color. 2. Eyebrows that are hardly there worn with lots of eye makeup 3.Bushy, unkept eyebrows.

  6. Nervous habits that you possibility don' t know you have, can detract from the image you want to portray. If you have a habit such as, nail biting, hair twisting, knee jerking, pay attention to getting it under control. Although this is not a habit, nothing ruins an image more than gum chewing - if you want to create a professional image -don't chew gum in public.

  7. A pleasant voice and a friendly attitude are characteristics that people respond to positively. If those characteristics are not evident or if the opposite is true no amount of training or grooming will pay up for it.

Copyright 2004 Sheila Dicks

About The Author

Sheila Dicks is an Image and Wardrobe Consultant who teaches women how to dress to suit their body type and look slimmer. Visit her at to download a copy of her ebook Image Makeover and get How to Build a Wardrobe Free.


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